Chapter 11

Chapter 11

 

 

September 10th, 2008

 

Astoria to Nehalem

Last night on my way back to the hotel I was looking for a restaurant to have dinner. There was a lot of nice places. But I finally decided on a sea-food emporium that looked inviting and I fancied some seafood. Going inside I spied all my Canadian friends who had obviously had the same idea. They tightened up and made a place for me at their large table.  It was a delightful evening and nice to socialize in pleasant surroundings. 

Up and out the next morning after the typical American motel breakfast. Which consisted of a coffee flask and a selection of sugary cakes consumed standing in the foyer of the motel. Hardly anything to get excited about. Its hard to beat the open wood fire and water boiling in a billy-can and a coffee to drink, with anything you have left over from the night before.          

Heading out of Astoria this morning up the hill out of town, I get the feeling I’m wrong. I eventually do the right thing and ask someone. I discover I’m going the wrong way!!

I’ve done about 6 miles of hill climbing before I discover my error. Hate that!! After climbing all those hills. I’m beginning to realise that I have this, almost pathological need to only go south. I hate having to back track. Ah! but I have the consolation of going down those hills again. Great! I retrace my pedals back to Astoria and head south ...  

To get out of Astoria I have another 4-mile long bridge (no! a different one). The guys who did the M50 bridge at home don’t know diddly about bridges. This is a monster in length. Fast traffic, an 18ins shoulder 3/4 full of debris, stones bits of tyres, wire and various other bits of detritus. 

I get over fast as I can. My heart is racing because with the narrow shoulder and my extra width with pannier bags, it doesn’t leave me much wriggle room. Traffic is murder and I have to stop as soon as I get over the bridge to catch my breath and settle for a Subway breakfast. Turkey and ham roll with salad and mustard and mayo, plus coffee. Brilliant!! 

I'm off again in earnest now. Spinning along nicely, eating up the miles on a 20-mile flat stretch. Nothing to recommend it. Nothing to see. Then I hit the first climb. About 6% for 2 miles. Approaching the top I hear this roaring sea, way beneath and a wind rush! 

Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of the Great Pacific Ocean. A continuous steady roar with white breakers way out to sea. I am in awe of it and it takes me a while to get going again.

 Two more steep climbs, each a few miles long. But as I keep saying it – “the descents” are fantastic. Halfway up the second climb there is a tunnel I need to go through. It has a set of big yellow lights above it. These are activated by cyclists when they push a button. Once the button is pressed the lights start flashing for a given time to advise drivers that cyclists are in the tunnel. So, after contemplating the process I wait for a break in the traffic, push the button and pedal like hell. Inside in the tunnel, in the dark, the noise of the cars coming behind you and in front would scare the living daylights out of you. And if it’s a truck? Prepare to be scared, petrified!

Sorry about the delay in the blog. Communication here is dire. You can go for days without phone or internet conection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crossing the mountain, I’m looking down on the town of Nahelem. A sleepy little town and as I drift down into it, it’s getting evening and I need a campsite or a motel. Neither are jumping out at me. The town is pretty deserted, and I stop outside a gift shop to enquire. It’s there at Art Happens that I met Bonnie and her assistant taking the evening sun. As I am enquiring about the facilities in town she invites me in for a soft drink on the porch. They are curious about my exploits and I’m only too willing to engage. 

We get on famously and she offers me accommodation in an apartment above the shop. She says it’s an apartment she uses to display some of the furniture she sells, and she says I am welcome to use it for the night. She shows me around and tells me I have the run of the place if I want. She puts on some nice music to listen to and leaves me to get on with it. It was beautifully restful sitting on the big leather sofa drinking wine and relaxed listening to soft music. Nahelem was so good. Art Happens, run by Bonnie. If you ever get to Nahelem, call in to Art Happens and say hello to Bonnie. I’m so relaxed here I leave it late to visit the only eating house I see in Nahelem. Sold out of food!! The town was sold out of hot food. I kid you not! I got a Pot Noodle and some cheese in a little supermarket and headed back to my apartment to relax again. 

 

 

 

 

Gavin said:

Loving the blog, it’s like being on holidays myself. Take care.

 

Geraldine said:

Great pics John, breathtaking views (apart from the tunnel)

 

 

 

Onwards & upwards John xx

 

 

Piroska said: Wow and wow!

much more. P.S. Check out the Oregon State Parks. There are some beauties.

 

 #1 Son (Sean) said: Hi John, we read your blog every day & it's great. Think I would have carried my bike on my back over that tunnel though.

I was studying the photo to find another way out! We all miss you so mind yourself ... Jell x

 

and John replied: Thanks Gavin, good to hear you and good luck with the christening. Sorry I cant be there and thanks for your continued support. #

 

 Hi Piroska, good to hear from you.